Retinol 101

Dec 20

Written By AME Skin

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ÂME SKIN STUDIO MONTHLY NEWSLETTER | DECEMBER 2021

Retinol 101

Fall/ Winter is also called Retinol season peopleeeee ( I just came up with this :D ).

But seriously, if you are not a Retinol user and you are in your 30’s+ you better read this and start using it now

Retinol is in just about every anti-aging skin care product on the shelves today. Not only is it one of the most researched skin care ingredients today, but it is also one of the most highly recommended by dermatologists everywhere.

You’ve all heard of it, but it’s clear that many still aren't exactly sure about it. Some are under the impression that retinol is an anti-aging skin care ingredient, while others have heard it described as an acne treatment.

The one thing we are sure of? It is the most proven ingredient to help build up collagen, even out skin tone, reduce the appearance of sun damage, promote skin renewal, all of the good stuff.

It’s really important to know about using retinol in our skincare routines, including why, how, and when to use it, which products to get, and precautions to follow.

Let’s start with a “retinol cheat sheet”, but if you are like me and love to understand what are you putting on your skin, read the longer and more detailed version right below.

RETINOL

TYPE OF INGREDIENT: Antioxidant

MAIN BENEFITS: Increases cell turnover, boosts collagen production, and regulates oil production.

WHO SHOULD USE IT: In general, anyone looking to reduce the signs of skin aging. Retinol is not recommended for women who are pregnant, planning to be, or nursing. Those with eczema or rosacea that's flaring should not use retinol.

HOW OFTEN CAN YOU USE IT: Start with once or twice a week to prevent irritation. Because sunlight deactivates retinol, apply it at night, followed by a moisturizer.

WORKS WELL WITH: Hydrating cleansers, niacinamide, hyaluronic acid, and ceramides.

DON’T USE WITH: Heavy scrubs, astringents, alpha hydroxy acids, beta hydroxy acids, benzoyl peroxide, and vitamin C, as doing so may irritate the skin.

What Is Retinol?

Retinol is a weaker, over-the-counter version of tretinoin, which is a prescription vitamin A derivative, used for anti-aging and found in many skin care products. Though many people are under the impression that retinol is an exfoliant, it’s an antioxidant.

Benefits of Using Retinol

Retinol has many benefits; in fact, I often tell clients that if they do nothing else, they should use retinol and sunscreen. It will visibly reduce the appearance of sun damage, brown spots, lines, wrinkles, and large pores. It can stimulate the metabolism of skin cells and encourage collagen production.

Reduces signs of aging: Because retinol enhances skin cell turnover, you’ll notice a more youthful quality to your skin.

Improves the texture of your skin: By boosting collagen production, your skin will have more firmness, structure, and strength. Plus, the cells on the surface of your skin will be replaced more quickly, helping smooth your skin and reduce the dull, dry look of dead skin.

Evens skin tone: Retinol can not only smooth the texture of your skin but the tone as well. With continued use, retinol works to fade hyperpigmentation (brown spots and patches) and give the look of smoother skin in a gentler, non-drying way than a prescription form.

Clears acne: Retinol decreases the function of overactive oil glands and unclogs pores. It helps to clear the skin, minimizes pores, and prevents breakouts. Plus, it boosts the potency of active ingredients in other acne-fighting medications, so if you use it in conjunction with other serums, you may see amplified results.

Boosts collagen production: This helps reduce the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and skin laxity. At the same time, it prevents the loss of the collagen and elastin we already have by slowing the enzyme that breaks them down.

Reverses the effects of sun damage: The antioxidants in retinol can help repair sun-damaged skin, such as lightening dark spots.

Side effects of Retinol

The side effects of retinol are that it can cause dryness, peeling, and irritation, that’s why it’s important to start slow and see how your skin reacts for a few weeks before increasing the frequency you will use it.

Women who are pregnant, planning, or breastfeeding should not use retinol.

Retinoids can only be damaging to the skin if you have a super-sensitive underlying skin condition like eczema or rosacea and can flare and enhance inflammation.

Still, people with sensitive conditions like rosacea may still be able to use a retinoid, but they need to gradually introduce it into their skincare regimen, perhaps only one time weekly, and prep their skin with a topical moisturizer before applying the retinoid.

You’ll need to stop applying retinol for at least a week before things like getting a micro needling facial, laser treatment, chemical peel, waxing, or intense sun exposure because it increases your sensitivity.

And, if you must go in the sun, there are some important sun-exposure precautions. If you would like to use a retinoid in the summertime, it’s imperative that you wear a high-SPF, broad-spectrum sunscreen daily!

Incorporating Retinol Into Your Skincare Routine

It takes around six weeks to start seeing results from retinol, so be patient.

Here’s how to start: it’s best to start with a very simple retinol routine.

In the morning, use a gentle cleanser, toner and then a moisturizer with SPF.

At night, wash with a gentle cleanser, and then apply the retinol, followed by a nightly moisturizer.

Be careful around the eye area. Apply your eye cream or Vaseline first, then apply the retinol.
Take a pea-sized amount and dab onto five points—the forehead, nose, each cheek, and chin. Gently rub it in to evenly distribute it over the face. Use a second pea-sized amount for the neck and décolletage.

It’s essential to give your skin a chance to adjust to retinol. Begin with applying it just once or twice a week on non-consecutive nights. Gradually increase how often, but not “how much” based on how your skin responds.

If any redness or irritation is noted the next day, you should skip that night’s application. Then work up to using the retinol for two nights on, one night off, alternating with an exfoliating acid serum and a nourishing treatment serum.

Since retinol is pushing up skin cells to the surface at a faster rate, retinol can cause micro-peeling (invisible peeling) in most skin types, so it’s important not to use it every night.

Because it takes two days for the cells to regenerate to the surface and cause the skin to get flaky, using an exfoliating serum on the third night is perfect for removing the surface dead cells that appear. Also, retinol may work even better when used back on the skin on fourth night, because now it can penetrate deeper into the skin because of the acid exfoliation the night before.

Super important to alternate with a hydrating serum to give the skin a break and calm the skin with ingredients that nourish and repair the skin barrier. It’s also important to do it this way simply because the skin performs its best when it has a variety of high-performance ingredients instead of the same one.

Tip:

You can try the sandwich technique—first apply a hyaluronic acid serum, then the retinol over it, and then a nightly moisturizer with ceramides on top.

Once your skin has adjusted to the retinol, you can add an antioxidant like Vitamin C “in the morning” under sunscreen.

IMPORTANT- Always start with one product at a time to see how your skin reacts before adding another.

In general, gels and sprays are more drying, while lotions, serums, and cream forms are more hydrating.

If you have oily skin at baseline, you might start with a gel or spray.
For combination skin, a lotion or serum might be best.
If you're dry, choose a cream.
You might need cream in the cold and something lighter in warm, humid weather.

Generally, if you’re just starting with retinol, you should pick a product with a concentration of 0.3% to 0.5%. You can work your way up the ladder as tolerated. Once you've gotten used to over-the-counter options, you can request a prescription-strength retinoid from your dermatologist.

PS: If your product doesn’t specify the percentage of retinol on the label, it usually means the concentration is weaker than .25%, which may not give you the full benefits of retinol.

Products with Retinol: my recommendations

RoC Retinol Correxion Deep Wrinkle Night Cream

Best budget

Olay Regenerist Retinol24 Night Face Moisturizer

Best drugstore’s

First Aid Beauty FAB Skin Lab Retinol Serum 0.25% Pure Concentrate

For beginners

SkinCeuticals Retinol 0.5 Refining Night Cream

My favorite!

Who are with me after all this information about Retinol?

Let’s end this with a very motivational image… lol!

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